"BAHAROM Barzaar is just a stone's throw away from Masjid Krue Se. It is located
in small side road leading from the 400-year-old mosque," Datuk Anusart Suwanmongkol
says when our breakfast discussion at C.S. Pattani Hotel skews towards southern Thailand's colourful history and rich cultural heritage.
A staunch supporter of local artistic practitioners, the Thai Senate member strongly recommends a visit to the popular handicraft centre.
"Although Barahom Barzaar doubles as a restaurant serving a variety of tantalising local cuisine, it is the way that the artisans incorporate Pattani's past in their creations that sets their cultural endeavour apart from the others," he says before bidding me farewell.
GLORIOUS PAST
Located some 13km from the bustling city centre where C.S. Pattani Hotel serves as my temporary base, Barahom Barzaar is managed by a passionate group of local women, whose labour of love produces a spectrum of batik-centric products, such as dresses, scarves, coin purses, handbags and even key chains.
Met upon arrival by Rokiyoh Daud, the initial part of the walkabout focuses on the various batik items on display. Highlighting the fact that the eye-catching designs are unique to Barahom Barzaar, Rokiyoh says that inspiration comes from motifs found on ancient artefacts like porcelain shards unearthed from nearby beaches.
Hailing from merchant ships that sank off the coast centuries ago, these broken pottery pieces not only serve as an inspiring artistic treasure trove, but also lay proof to Pattani's strategic location along ancient maritime trading routes.
Said to have been founded after a beautiful white mouse-deer, the size of a goat, was sighted during a hunting trip, Pattani's growing influence was attributed to its able and just first Buddhist ruler, who embraced Islam and became known as Sultan Ismail Shah.
By the late 15th century, Pattani's deep-water port and sheltered shoreline gave reason for European traders to use it as gateway to the lucrative Chinese market. Bustling trade saw popular Western products like textiles, mirrors and knives exchanging hands with Eastern merchandise such as silk, porcelain and sandalwood.
GOLDEN AGE
Most scholars agree that the period spanning the mid-16th century to the late 17th century witnessed Pattani's golden age. At that time, the rapidly growing commercial centre was ruled consecutively by Raja Hijau, Raja Biru, Raja Ungu and Raja Kuning, all of whom were Sultan Ismail Shah's great granddaughters.
The royal siblings' keen administrative capabilities gave rise to a stable political climate conducive for trade. As an important regional hub, Pattani saw ships from as far away as Portugal, the Netherlands, China and Japan making a beeline for its port. Abundant wealth also allowed Pattani to raise a well-equipped army strong enough to fight off four major invasions from Ayutthaya and maintain its independence.
Drawing attention to Barahom Barzaar's logo, Rokiyoh explains that the fan or cloud-like design is adopted from intricate sandstone carvings found on Pattani's ancient royal tombstones.
"Incorporating the regal monogram into our product label is a mark of deference to our glorious past," she says, adding that the Pattani Kingdom eventually fell into decline by the early 18th century and was finally subdued by Ayutthaya in 1786. Pattani became part of Thailand after its last ruler, Sultan Abdul Kadir Kamaruddin Syah, was deposed in 1902.
BOOSTING TOURISM
The enthralling visit comes to an end with a tantalising lunch consisting of local delicacies. With the coast just a short distance away, the selection leans heavily on freshly harvested marine products like fish, mussels, crabs and even lobsters. At the same time, surrounding villages ensure a constant supply of fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables.
Among the dishes popular with tourists are deep-fried fish, spicy longtail tuna soup as well as a fiery fermented seafood dip, which closely resembles Malaysia's 'budu'. Washed down with herbal drinks to help counter the spiciness of southern cuisine, the meal highlights the best of southern Thailand's culinary diversity.
Crossing paths with Anusart upon arrival back at C.S. Pattani Hotel, I express gratitude for his suggestion to visit Barahom Barzaar. In response to my comment that more should be done to help promote Pattani's many interesting places of attraction, he concurs by saying, "Apart from Hatyai and Songkhla, tourism in southern Thailand is still in its infancy."
Then, while gesturing towards the sizeable collection of cultural artefacts on display in the lobby area, the successful businessman and generous philanthropist clarifies that there is an ongoing concerted effort from both the private and public sectors to boost tourist arrivals, especially in the Yala, Narathiwat and Pattani provinces.
"Tourist arrivals will surely pick up significantly in the near future."
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